A WALK ALONE IN LONDON

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With the UK, and most of the world, still in various states of lockdown, one of the greatest forms of excitement we can afford ourselves these days is – you guessed it – a walk. With the ‘rule of six’ reinstated yesterday, and the 17C/72F weather, Londoners are out en masse for the first time since before Yuletide. But, loner and London-transplant that I am, I decided today was the perfect day to throw on some sunnies, dust off my vans (what are shoes even?), and embrace the first day of truly nice weather with a much loved and well-trod solo walk along the Thames.

This route is no hidden secret to Londoners and regular tourists, but if you’re unfamiliar with London it can be easy to miss compared to some of the more obvious attractions. However, if you do this right, you can take in a few of the big ones along the way.

I like to start at Blackfriars station, via the Circle or District line on the Tube. There is a corner pub called the Black Friars right outside of the Tube station, which narrows down to a point like the Flatiron building in NYC. It has a statue of a fat friar on its corner and is impossible to miss. This is a great place to start with lunch or a pint (or both), and there’s some outdoor seating for days like today. This is actually my favorite pub in London, and has been so for 15 years. Sure, there are older and more authentic pubs, but this place is nostalgic for me. It has a great Art Nouveau interior and interesting history, dating back to the 13th century when there was a Dominican friary on the same site. I sadly couldn’t have a beer there today thanks to lockdown, but started my journey there all the same. From the station, I crossed Blackfriars Bridge to the south side of the river, turning left and east at the stairs leading down to the river walk at the end of the bridge. This path will quickly take you past the Tate Modern, the free modern art museum with great art and lovely river views from the galleries. I personally recommend the Mark Rothko room, which I think is one of the most peaceful places in London. Directly outside of the Tate Modern is the Millennium Bridge (which you may recognize from Harry Potter), and if you prefer, you can actually walk along the north side of the river from Blackfriars and cross here toward the museum.

From here, continue east along the river, and you will pass Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre. This is a recreation of the original, which was situated nearby, but is a historical experience nonetheless. They are constantly running Shakespearean plays, and you can often get £10 standing tickets in front of the stage relatively last minute. This can be quite fun as every play I’ve ever been to at the Globe has incorporated the standing space into the performance. This theater is essentially outdoor, and is especially nice on a summer’s day or evening (note that the seating areas are covered, but the standing area is not). The Globe also has an indoor theater called the Sam Wannamaker Playhouse, which is just a little bit breathtaking. It is either completely, or mainly, candlelit if I remember correctly, and feels like nothing short of being transported back to Elizabethan England with its warm wood paneling, large chandeliers & snug atmosphere.

Carrying on from here, you will go past pubs, through painted tunnels featuring opera singers or cellists using the natural acoustics to busk for strangers, and past places to stop and eat if you’ve worked up an appetite. Not far east of the Globe is Borough Market, near Southwark Cathedral and London Bridge station. Definitely check out the market restaurants and stalls, pick up a beer, some ice cream or maybe a few oysters for a nice respite on your journey. Due to the pandemic, there were way fewer stalls than normal today, and some of the shops were shut, but enough of it was open to make it worth a stop to pick up some artisanal cheese and saucisson. Side note for fellow vegetarians: if you encounter the stall that only sells mushroom pâté, do yourself a favor and buy two. From the riverwalk you have to walk around Southwark Cathedral to enter the market, but the cathedral itself is well worth a visit (especially if it’s hot out and you need a little break from the sun).

From London Bridge/Borough Market, continue east along the river. There may be some twists and turns at this point, and today I had to take a small side route due to some construction, but just follow the crowds and head towards the water any time you’re briefly steered away from it.

Once you pass Hays Galleria, you will approach the HMS Belfast docked on the river. Though I’ve never done one of their tours myself, this could be a nice stop for any military history buffs. Once you pass this massive naval ship, you’ll emerge into what I think of as the money shot area. Probably the most Instagram-able part of the walk is here, where you finally get your first look at famous Tower Bridge and across the river to the Tower of London. You will find many a tourist snapping selfies here and lounging around the grassy Potter Field area at the foot of the bridge. This is a nice place to sit and have a picnic, a cold G&T (remember you can drink in public in the UK) & just sit back and appreciate the view - if you can find a spot to sit that is.

Much of this walk is actually known as The Queens Walk (or Southbank, to locals), and has many gems tucked away, like remnants of a 12th bishop’s palace and reconstructed ships. This is a scenic and culturally rich walk any time of the year, but particularly nice on a warm sunny day with a cold drink in hand. And though I often do this walk alone, it’s a great afternoon-to-evening excursion with a bit of company, especially out of town friends (hence a picture of two of my Big Sis when we did this exact same walk a month later).

And if you make it as far as Tower Bridge and aren’t completely worn out or too tipsy from the pub stops, enjoy the crowded walk over the bridge to the north side, snap a few photos, and pay a visit to the Tower, my favorite place in London.